830 The Niigata Geigi: Japan’s ‘other’ geishas

For most people, the word “geisha” conjures visions of Kyoto’s Gion district.
But there is another major geisha centre, one that even many Japanese don’t know.

Niigata’s geisha tradition dates back more than 200 years to the Edo era (1603-1867) when the city was a major port on the Kitamaebune (literally, “north-bound ships”) shipping route that connected Osaka with Hokkaido. Thousands of cargo vessels made this journey each year.
As the capital of Japan’s largest rice producing area, Niigata became the busiest port on the Sea of Japan coast. By the early Meiji Era (1868-1912), Niigata was among the wealthiest, most populous parts of the nation.

A thriving entertainment district grew up in the Furumachi neighbourhoood of the city to cater for the countless wealthy merchants and other visitors. Geishas (or geigis, in the local dialect) began performing at Furumachi’s many teahouses, ozashiki (banqueting halls) and ryotei (luxury restaurants). Politicians and even members of the Imperial family figured among the clientele. By 1884, nearly 400 geigis were performing in Furumachi.

Furumachi has the additional advantage that many of its ryotei accept first-time visitors, while many other famous geisha areas require an introduction from a regular client. Niigata is also the home of the Ichiyama School of Traditional Dance, a style uniquely practised by Niigata geigis that has been the basis of local performances for more than 100 years and is designated as an Intangible Cultural Property. Geigis perform this dance style when singing songs like “Niigata Okesa”, which was brought to Niigata by mariners sailing the Kitamaebune trade route.

However, with the advent of TV, cinema and other alternative forms of entertainment, demand for geishas declined drastically. By the late 1970s, Furumachi geigi numbers had dropped below 100. By 1985, just 60 remained. With no new trainees joining since the late 1960s, the youngest geigis in Furumachi were in their 30s.

I – Word Understanding
Conjures – makes you think of something
Intangible – that cannot be touched or grasped / no physical presence
Intangible Cultural Property – a practice, representation, expression, knowledge, or skill considered by UNESCO to be part of a place’s cultural heritage.

II – Have Your Say
1, Describe or tell something that you know about the following:
a, Japanese tea house
b, Ozashiki
c, Ryotei
d, Niigata
e, Geisha / Geigi
2, What is the importance of preserving Intangible Cultural Properties? Aside from Japanese traditional dance, what other intangible properties in Japan do you know?

830 The Niigata Geigi: Japan’s ‘other’ geishas